Opinion

Saturday Morning at the Ann Arbor Farmers Market

The building is gone. The market isn't. Why that matters more than you'd think.

I got to the Ann Arbor Farmers Market at 8 a.m. on a Saturday in late February, which is early enough to feel virtuous and late enough that the Tantré Farm stand had already sold out of its storage carrots. Regulars at Tantré Farm's stand know to arrive early — the best produce goes fast.

This is the kind of thing that makes a farmers market different from a grocery store. The inventory is finite. It was pulled from the ground by a specific person, driven to Kerrytown in a specific truck, and when it's gone, it's gone until next week. That scarcity is not a bug. It is the entire mechanism that connects a consumer to a season, a farm, and a county.

The Saturday Crowd

The market has been running for 107 years. Let that sit. It predates the Great Depression, both World Wars, the construction of most of Ann Arbor as we know it. On a Saturday morning, the crowd is a cross-section of the city that you don't see in many other places. Students buying eggs. Families with strollers navigating between the tables. Retired couples who have been shopping here since before the students were born. A man in a Detroit Tigers cap buying honey from a farm in Saline. A woman filling a canvas bag with potatoes and talking to the grower about soil.

Kapnick Orchards usually has apples well into winter, stored from the fall harvest. The honey vendors are year-round. Tantre's vegetables follow the seasons strictly: winter squash and root vegetables through March, greens starting in April, the full riot of summer produce by July. The bakers are always there. The bread is always good.

I bought a dozen eggs, a jar of sauerkraut from The Brinery (which ferments its cabbage using Tantré's own crop, on Tantré's own property), and a loaf of sourdough from a baker whose name I should have written down. The total was $22. At Whole Foods, the equivalent would cost more and come without the knowledge of where any of it started.

The Missing Building

In July 2025, the market's office building suffered a foundation failure and was demolished. A public visioning process for improvements was planned. The building is gone. The market is not.

I mention this because there was a period last summer when the demolition generated the kind of anxiety that Ann Arbor channels toward any change in Kerrytown. Is the market okay? Will it survive? What happens now? The answer, which should have been obvious, is that the market continues to do what it has done since 1919: set up tables, sell food, and go home. The building housed offices and infrastructure. It did not house the market. The market happens in the open air, in the shed, in the space between the trucks and the tables. That has not changed.

The visioning process matters because it will determine what the market looks like physically in five or ten years. But the market itself is not its building. It is the network of farms, producers, and shoppers who show up every Wednesday and Saturday because the system works.

Why a Market Matters

I have written about Washtenaw County's farm-to-table infrastructure before, and the farmers market is the most visible piece of it. Argus Farm Stop operates three locations. Agricole in Chelsea runs a four-season indoor market. Growing Hope in Ypsilanti puts farm stands in neighborhoods. These are all important. But the Ann Arbor Farmers Market is the original, the anchor, the place where the idea that local food should be accessible and public was established before anyone had a term for it.

No one in Washtenaw County lives more than 10 miles from a farmers market. That statistic from the farm-to-table piece is easy to skip past, but I keep coming back to it. It means access to local food is not a privilege determined by address. It is a geographic fact.

The market also accepts SNAP and EBT benefits. Combined with the Double Up Food Bucks program that Growing Hope administers, which matches SNAP dollars spent at farmers markets dollar-for-dollar, the market functions as something more than a weekend shopping destination for people who can afford organic carrots. It is a piece of food infrastructure that serves the entire city. Not every farmers market in America can say that. This one can.

The Case for Showing Up

I am not going to tell you that shopping at the farmers market will change your life. It will not. You will still buy most of your groceries at Meijer or Trader Joe's, and that's fine. Supply chains exist for a reason.

But I will say this: the farmers market is the one place in Ann Arbor where the distance between the person who grew your food and the person eating it is measured in feet, not in supply chain nodes. The growers can tell you about the soil their produce grew in because they were standing in it yesterday. The Brinery can tell you which farm grew the cabbage in your sauerkraut because it grew on the same property where they ferment it. That directness matters. Not because it makes the food taste better (though I think it does), but because it makes the food real in a way that a shrink-wrapped package on a shelf cannot.

The Ann Arbor Farmers Market is in its 107th year. The building is gone. The market is still here. On Saturday mornings, in the cold and in the heat, the tables go up, the trucks pull in, and the city feeds itself the way it has for more than a century.

Show up before seven if you want the carrots.


The Ann Arbor Farmers Market operates Wednesdays (7 a.m.--3 p.m.) and Saturdays (7 a.m.--3 p.m.) year-round at Kerrytown, 315 Detroit St, Ann Arbor. SNAP/EBT accepted. RoosRoast has a stand on Wednesdays and Saturdays.